San Blas Islands
Having in the back of my mind the knowledge that my trip will soon be coming to an end only stirs my impatience to mentally prepare for returning to the states and especially of preparing of what is to come. However, I am really glad that I decided to continue one last leg to Colombia by sailboat. This is the third day in a five day voyage because of our stop in the San Blas Islands of Panama. It is here though that has made my entire Central American trip all the more exciting. The San Blas islands consist of about 340 of the most beautiful white sand beach, palm tree covered, crystal green watered islands of which we take time from our busy schedules to visit in a daydream. In fact, one island is very tiny with only one palm tree and apparently with the tourists it is very popular to be dropped off in the morning and retrieved in the evening allowing said person to play out the ´stranded on an island´fantasy. Not my fantasy, I did not try it!
The most wonderful part of visiting these islands has been meeting the local natives known as the Kuna. Kuna are a matrilineal society, the women control the money and the husband moves into the woman´s family compound. They marry as early as 13 years old and it is forbidden to marry someone other than Kuna. Marrying other than Kuna will lead to expulsion from the Kuna Nation. This intermarriage system has apparently led to an increasing number of albino births.
Each village has two large huts for the council of the Sahilas, or indian chiefs. The Sahilas do little during the day except sing long monotonous songs of ancestors and past exploits including battles with spanish invaders. This oral history is passed from generation to generation through song.
The women are covered in molas (handsewn pictoral garments), wini (rings of colorful beads around their arms and legs and gold jewelry. I asked if they made the jewelry by hand, but apparently they buy it in Colon even though the local rivers are supposedly full of the metal. All Panamanians, including Kuna, have been directed against taking gold from the rivers. As one Kuna Chief put it ¨history has shown us that whenever we take gold out of the mountains somebody comes and takes it away from us, this is why no Kuna is allowed to wash for gold in the rivers.¨
When we arrived to the first island, Wichub Huala, the women immediately come out to the anchored boats in their dugout canoes called ulus trying to sell their molas. While on the island meeting Kuna people and taking photos, I noticed a group of boys, ranging in age from 8-11, all crouching down in a circle confounded by the puzzle that lie on the ground amongst them. There lie a stick about five feet tall placed through an old miniature bicycle wheel. After confirming with them that they intended to make a basketball hoop and seeing their confused looks as how to make this happen, I was really happy to help out by tying the stick to the tire with a piece of string I had found half buried in the dirt. I couldn´t have felt better after seeing the joys of their faces and the repeated words of ´muchas gracias´from each of them as though I had just made their day. This is my favorite memory of this trip and I have many wonderful memories already.
The second island we visited was Chichime which consisted of four or five huts and about 15 people. I went for a walk on the beach and came across seven or so girls and their carefree bare-bottom children swimming in the crystal green waters. As it is likely a rare occasion that they leave the island in their ulus I seemed to be something of an oddity to them (no comments please) and they invited me to come swim with them with reassuring giggles. Even with limited conversation I had the time of my life. . . knowing that not many experience the wonderful dream I am living. When I was about to leave they asked with excitement if I would allow a photo with them. Yes, though they make their own clothes and don´t have electricity, technology has visited once or twice as they have cell phones and cameras. Apparently they charge them on the sailboats when they arrive. I felt like a rockstar as the women and their children crowded me for a photo and I was able to return later for a photo of my own to save a memory of which I can recall when old age has deceived me.
Little is more rewarding than seeing in someone else the effects of you.
Note: One thing I forgot to mention is that I felt like a giant in the sense of stature as well, as none of the Kuna reached a height of more than f ive feet and many just barely cleared my chest. An amazing experience!! Tomorrow we sail for Colombia!!!
